Roasted Chestnuts.
Selection.
Choose your chestnuts with care. Avoid ones that are split, or ones that rattle, or have little bug holes drilled into them. Those are not likely to be neither fresh nor appetizing. It makes little difference whether you choose large chestnuts or small chestnuts. I prefer smaller chestnuts as they are easier to roast and seem to pack a more concentrated flavour. A serving of chestnuts is probably around 8-12. For first-time chestnut eaters, this drops to about 4-6.
Preparation.
The back of the chestnut is characterized by a dark patch of shell, the front by a pointed shape. Between the front and back is the flat bottom and the domed top. Sit the chestnuts on the bottom, and split the top of the shell. Using a chopping board and a heavy knife (but not as heavy as a cleaver!), split the tops of the nut with a single well aimed chop. One need not use excessive force; the weight of the blade should be enough to split the shell. Ideally, you should aim to split the top of the shell without damaging the nut inside, but do not worry too much about it. The idea is to allow steam to escape the nut, preventing messy chestnut explosions during roasting. The secondary aim is to facilitate shelling prior to consumption. Preheat a toaster or conventional oven to 300 degrees farenheit.
Cooking.
Arrange the chestnuts on a foil-lined tray, split tops facing upwards. It is not necessary to cover them. Roast the nuts in the preheated oven for 45 minutes. Take one out and test-eat it. The nut should be soft, only slightly firmer than the consistency of baked potato. The raw chestnut has the consistency of an unripe apple. Any crunchiness in the test-chestnut would indicate that it has not been fully cooked yet. Test again at five minute intervals to get a feel for how long chestnuts need to be roasted. The fully roasted chestnut is soft, and slightly moist. The meat should separate easily from the shell and fuzzy membranous inner skin, while it is still hot. The nutty flavours and sweetness are maximized in this state.
Consuming.
Do not allow the chestnuts to cool. If they do, the meat will adhere to the fuzzy membranous skin inside the shell, and detract from the flavour. The skin is dry and bitter, and difficult to remove once the meat has cooled. Grip the nut by placing the thumb against the patch at the back of the nut. Fully crack the shell by applying force along the front-back axis. The split in the shell should widen. Pull the two halves of the shell away from each other and extract the meaty endosperm. For beginners, this process will not go smoothly, hampered by burnt fingertips and clumsy technique. With time and practice, you can build a tolerance to the piping hot nuts and remove the shell efficiently. Ideally, you should only roast as many chestnuts as you can shell before they cool enough for the skin to adhere to the meat.
Other methods.
There are many other methods for roasting chestnuts. One particular one practiced across europe and asia by street vendors is the slow-roast using sand and sugar. The chestnuts are roasted over a bed of sand and sugar, resulting in a moist and sweet chestnut that retains the flavour better than the previous method. Because the chestnuts are not split open, it is possible to slow-roast all day without fear of drying-out. However, this process is far slower and creates a mess out of the sticky melted sugar. The sand helps roast the chestnuts evenly over a greater surface.
For a great seasonal holiday treat, steeped in tradition, and celebrated in carols, roast your own chestnuts. Best enjoyed with a chilled desert wines with sweet, slightly nutty tastes and hints of figs and grapes.
Tuesday, November 30, 2004
Saturday, November 27, 2004
The Blue with a Clue
Do you remember what the questions were? If you don't the that's very unfortunate for you.
1. My life really IS that boring. I don't have extremely happy memories, and I don't experience any serious conflicts.
2. A look, a smile, a touch.
3. Immortality.
4. He wouldn't say anything to me. He'd be laughing, and I'd know why, and so I'd laugh too.
5. Poker.
6. Wrote me a christmas poem. Said a barrage of very mean things... in chinese. Took responsability for an undesireable situation. Given me my watch.
7. Calgary: playing with my cousins, without a single care in the world.
8. Driven him and his damn furniture downtown.
9. My everyday life (the routine... the daily grind).
1. My life really IS that boring. I don't have extremely happy memories, and I don't experience any serious conflicts.
2. A look, a smile, a touch.
3. Immortality.
4. He wouldn't say anything to me. He'd be laughing, and I'd know why, and so I'd laugh too.
5. Poker.
6. Wrote me a christmas poem. Said a barrage of very mean things... in chinese. Took responsability for an undesireable situation. Given me my watch.
7. Calgary: playing with my cousins, without a single care in the world.
8. Driven him and his damn furniture downtown.
9. My everyday life (the routine... the daily grind).
Monday, November 15, 2004
Everything in threes.
Well, well... I've decided to descend into the shallow stinking pool that is e-chain-survey-ing. Since I responded to someone else's survey, I will keep my word and paste this on my little journal for everyone to complete. This, undoubtedly, is just the beginning. Soon enough, I will visit others' blogs and fill out this damned survey a hundred times over (and a hundred times again!) - at least for those who bothered to post this. For that, I apologize ahead of time. Now please, fill out the forms below, and don't pretend to miss part C. Though Jesus will forgives you, I shall not.
(A) First, recommend to me:
1. a movie:
2. a book:
3. a musical artist, song, or album:
(B) I want everyone who reads this to ask me three questions, no more, no less. Ask me anything you want.
(C) Then I want you to go to your journal, copy and paste this allowing your friends to ask you anything.
Post your answers in my comments, I'll answer part B as promptly as possible.
Perhaps this survey is more constructive than others - I may benefit from some cultural enlightenment. Action movies, science fiction, and pop music lacks depth(... i guess).
(A) First, recommend to me:
1. a movie:
2. a book:
3. a musical artist, song, or album:
(B) I want everyone who reads this to ask me three questions, no more, no less. Ask me anything you want.
(C) Then I want you to go to your journal, copy and paste this allowing your friends to ask you anything.
Post your answers in my comments, I'll answer part B as promptly as possible.
Perhaps this survey is more constructive than others - I may benefit from some cultural enlightenment. Action movies, science fiction, and pop music lacks depth(... i guess).
Thursday, November 04, 2004
The Art of Shoe Polishing.
When it comes to polishing your leather shoes and boots to a high shine, there are many schools of thought on which way is best. The truth is, everybody has a personal preference, and even the most seasoned shoe polisher will adhere to what he or she knows, reluctant to try new techniques. I have compiled a short list of anecdotal methods for bringing the shine to your dull and scuffed footwear.
1. Washing.
Firstly, the shoes must be cleaned. All shoe polishers agree that a layer of dirt between layers of polish will hurt your shine job in the long run. In time, the layers of polish over the layer of dirt may separate and peel and flake from the shoe, creating patches of worn leather resembling large potholes in a road. Wash any mud off the surfaces with warm water and a mild detergent. Allow the leather to air dry. Stuffing your shoes with newspaper to speed up the process will cause the shoe to shrink, separating the leather from the sole - damage which is expensive to repair, if reparable at all. On that same note, throwing the shoes into the dryer will also shrink the leather and separate it from the sole. Have patience and allow the shoes to air dry completely before applying any polish.
2. Sealing.
Some people like their shoes to be waterproof, or at least, highly water resistant. To achieve this, use a liquid silicone-based sealant, available at most shoe repair shops and department stores. Do not use caulking silicone or similar construction sealant. Concentrate on the seams and where the leather meets the sole. These are the most porous parts of the shoe. Some sealants are alcohol based, and after application, leave the leather stiff and hard. Not to worry, the oils in the polish and your foot will help 'break' the shoe in again.
3. Tools you will require:
Applicator Brush (small circular horsehair brush with a small handle - one for each type of polish): The applicator brush is used to apply the raw polish. As such, it is necessary to have one per type of polish to avoid contamination. It is no good to have black streaks on your brown shoes, nor is it proper to mix cream and wax based polishes - the cream will dissolve the wax.
Buffing Brush (large rectangular horsehair brush with no handle - only one is necessary): The buffing brush is used for buffing. There is no fear of contamination since no polish actually gets on to the buffing brush. The buffing brush, asides from buffing, can also be used as a duster. A quick buff can also remove minor scuff marks, if there isn't sufficient time to re-polish the footwear.
Polishing Cloth (soft piece of material used to achieve a high-shine, or spit-polish - only one is necessary): It is important to have an unused portion of polishing cloth. Once a part of the cloth is used, that part becomes matted and will not be able to carry out its function. One popular brand is Kiwi - which produces what is commonly known as a Kiwi Cloth. Alternatives include soft towels, felt, and microfleece; however, the results achieved with a Kiwi Cloth seem to be unparalleled.
Shoe Polish: There are mainly two different kinds of shoe polish - wax based, or cream based. Though the cream is easier to use, the wax is far superior in terms of achieving a high shine and protecting the leather from trauma. The cream is better for conditioning and improving the pliability of the leather. Thus, for gloves and soft footwear, cream should be used. For dress shoes and other hard leather shoes, wax should be used. Whatever the choice, care should be taken not to mix the two on the applicator. Polish also comes in a large variety of colours, the browns and blacks being the most common. It is also possible to get navy blue and maroon, though anything else may be more difficult to come by. Remember that colours should not be mixed to avoid streaking on your shoes. I personally recommend Kiwi brand shoe polish. Do not leave shoe polish exposed to air or heat or direct sunlight for extended periods of time. The solvent evaporates, leaving the wax hard and crusty.
Miscellaneous: Toothbrushes are useful if you have two different colours on your footwear. Many golf shoes, for example have two different colours of leather. In this case, the applicator brush is too coarse for this precision job. The lighter colour should be polished on first, and the darker colour applied with the toothbrush afterwards. You need not worry about streaking when buffing. Womens' nylons are also useful tools for touchups and a final buffing. Nobody can explain it, but the touch of the nylons brightens the shine a noticeable degree. A lighter is also a helpful tool, required for a 'burn-shine.'
4. Buff-shine: the simplest kind of shine. A single layer of polish is applied onto the surface, and then buffed. This is the best type of shine for soft leather footwear. Advantages: the polished surface retains the grain and texture of leather. Disadvantages: the buff-shine is the dimmest kind of shine - it colours the leather but does not cover up any minor abrasions. Warning: buff-shining produces a fine dust of polish, that when rubbed, causes streaks. Ensure that you buff-shine outdoors, or over an easily washable or disposable surface (read: not over your carpet).
5. Spit-shine: a complex shine that creates a polished surface so smooth that it is reflective. This technique is not recommended for soft or flexible leather. It is best applied to a hard surface - such as the toe of a dress shoe. If the spit-shone portion is flexed, the wax will flake off at the crease, resembling dandruff. Since many layers of polish need to be applied to cover up the texture of leather, only wax can be used to achieve a spit-shine. There are many schools of thought when it comes to high shines. Some advocate the use of fire - melting the polish on the shoe itself in what is known as a 'burn shine.' Still, others swear by water - hot water, cold water, luke-warm water, room temperature water... Every person must develop their own personal styles when it comes to achieving a high-finish.
In any case, a good foundation of wax must be laid before anything else is done. After cleaning, and drying, the wax needs to be layered on by means of buff-shining. The more layers applied, the smoother the end shine will be. I personally advocate applying at least three layers of polish as a base - that is, apply a layer of polish, buff it, and repeat three times. For a superior shine, apply at least five layers as a base.
Using Fire
After applying several layers of polish, directly heat the polished surface. Old-school polishers will use fire, from a lighter or candle, and melt the polish just enough so that it liquefies and smoothes over, but not so much as to set the shoe itself on fire. The key is to keep everything moving - like ironing clothes, leaving the iron on your shirts will surely start a fire, and ruin everything. When the polish melts, the surface becomes impossibly glossy, but as the polish cools, it takes on a dull foggy appearance. An alternative to fire is a hair-dryer. Hair-dryers can generate sufficient heat to melt the polish without setting the shoe on fire. Finally, water is used, as described below to complete the shine. Note that using fire is entirely optional. From my experience, I have found that it is a wholly unnecessary step.
Using Water
This final step is, in my opinion, the key in achieving a glossy finish. The material used to work the polish into the surface varies, depending on tradition, and availability. Though the Kiwi Cloth is recommended, almost any soft material can be used instead. Cottonballs are excellent, but end up being too small to be useful. A cotton rag is an economical alternative. Whatever material is used for the final spit-shine, it is vitally important that it contains no solvents or detergents. Such things can immediately strip layers of polish off the surface, and ruin hours of hard work.
Firstly, soak the cloth in water, and wring it out, leaving it damp. Prepare a dish of water - the lid of the polish tin makes for a good dish. Wrap a section of the cloth around a finger or two - this is the portion of the cloth we will use to spit-shine. Liberally soak the portion in water, easily accessible in that nearby dish, and lightly dab it in polish. You should have some polish now on your fingertips (rather, on the cloth, wrapped around your fingertips). Apply this on the surface using a small circular pattern, with very light pressure. Continue rubbing this spot until the polish no longer streaks, and a patch of brightness appears. Repeat the process on another part of the surface, ensuring that you use a liberal amount of water. Ensure that you pay particular attention to the details. Use a cuetip in a similar manner to polish the seam between the leather and the sole, as well as any other raised seams on the surface. Just like how many layers of buff-polish need to be added, several layers of spit-polish also need to be added. Generally, one should not require any more than three layers of spit-polishing. This is the extremely time-consuming part of the job. Fortunately, spit-polishing is relatively clean as it does not generate the dust that buff-shining does. So, it is best to spit-polish while watching entire seasons of television shows, or movie marathons, while eating, drinking, and/or chatting with friends.
That concludes my brief (haha) tutorial on how to polish shoes. Should you, in the future, require a polish, I will be more than glad to polish your shoes for a modest fee of bubble tea.
1. Washing.
Firstly, the shoes must be cleaned. All shoe polishers agree that a layer of dirt between layers of polish will hurt your shine job in the long run. In time, the layers of polish over the layer of dirt may separate and peel and flake from the shoe, creating patches of worn leather resembling large potholes in a road. Wash any mud off the surfaces with warm water and a mild detergent. Allow the leather to air dry. Stuffing your shoes with newspaper to speed up the process will cause the shoe to shrink, separating the leather from the sole - damage which is expensive to repair, if reparable at all. On that same note, throwing the shoes into the dryer will also shrink the leather and separate it from the sole. Have patience and allow the shoes to air dry completely before applying any polish.
2. Sealing.
Some people like their shoes to be waterproof, or at least, highly water resistant. To achieve this, use a liquid silicone-based sealant, available at most shoe repair shops and department stores. Do not use caulking silicone or similar construction sealant. Concentrate on the seams and where the leather meets the sole. These are the most porous parts of the shoe. Some sealants are alcohol based, and after application, leave the leather stiff and hard. Not to worry, the oils in the polish and your foot will help 'break' the shoe in again.
3. Tools you will require:
Applicator Brush (small circular horsehair brush with a small handle - one for each type of polish): The applicator brush is used to apply the raw polish. As such, it is necessary to have one per type of polish to avoid contamination. It is no good to have black streaks on your brown shoes, nor is it proper to mix cream and wax based polishes - the cream will dissolve the wax.
Buffing Brush (large rectangular horsehair brush with no handle - only one is necessary): The buffing brush is used for buffing. There is no fear of contamination since no polish actually gets on to the buffing brush. The buffing brush, asides from buffing, can also be used as a duster. A quick buff can also remove minor scuff marks, if there isn't sufficient time to re-polish the footwear.
Polishing Cloth (soft piece of material used to achieve a high-shine, or spit-polish - only one is necessary): It is important to have an unused portion of polishing cloth. Once a part of the cloth is used, that part becomes matted and will not be able to carry out its function. One popular brand is Kiwi - which produces what is commonly known as a Kiwi Cloth. Alternatives include soft towels, felt, and microfleece; however, the results achieved with a Kiwi Cloth seem to be unparalleled.
Shoe Polish: There are mainly two different kinds of shoe polish - wax based, or cream based. Though the cream is easier to use, the wax is far superior in terms of achieving a high shine and protecting the leather from trauma. The cream is better for conditioning and improving the pliability of the leather. Thus, for gloves and soft footwear, cream should be used. For dress shoes and other hard leather shoes, wax should be used. Whatever the choice, care should be taken not to mix the two on the applicator. Polish also comes in a large variety of colours, the browns and blacks being the most common. It is also possible to get navy blue and maroon, though anything else may be more difficult to come by. Remember that colours should not be mixed to avoid streaking on your shoes. I personally recommend Kiwi brand shoe polish. Do not leave shoe polish exposed to air or heat or direct sunlight for extended periods of time. The solvent evaporates, leaving the wax hard and crusty.
Miscellaneous: Toothbrushes are useful if you have two different colours on your footwear. Many golf shoes, for example have two different colours of leather. In this case, the applicator brush is too coarse for this precision job. The lighter colour should be polished on first, and the darker colour applied with the toothbrush afterwards. You need not worry about streaking when buffing. Womens' nylons are also useful tools for touchups and a final buffing. Nobody can explain it, but the touch of the nylons brightens the shine a noticeable degree. A lighter is also a helpful tool, required for a 'burn-shine.'
4. Buff-shine: the simplest kind of shine. A single layer of polish is applied onto the surface, and then buffed. This is the best type of shine for soft leather footwear. Advantages: the polished surface retains the grain and texture of leather. Disadvantages: the buff-shine is the dimmest kind of shine - it colours the leather but does not cover up any minor abrasions. Warning: buff-shining produces a fine dust of polish, that when rubbed, causes streaks. Ensure that you buff-shine outdoors, or over an easily washable or disposable surface (read: not over your carpet).
5. Spit-shine: a complex shine that creates a polished surface so smooth that it is reflective. This technique is not recommended for soft or flexible leather. It is best applied to a hard surface - such as the toe of a dress shoe. If the spit-shone portion is flexed, the wax will flake off at the crease, resembling dandruff. Since many layers of polish need to be applied to cover up the texture of leather, only wax can be used to achieve a spit-shine. There are many schools of thought when it comes to high shines. Some advocate the use of fire - melting the polish on the shoe itself in what is known as a 'burn shine.' Still, others swear by water - hot water, cold water, luke-warm water, room temperature water... Every person must develop their own personal styles when it comes to achieving a high-finish.
In any case, a good foundation of wax must be laid before anything else is done. After cleaning, and drying, the wax needs to be layered on by means of buff-shining. The more layers applied, the smoother the end shine will be. I personally advocate applying at least three layers of polish as a base - that is, apply a layer of polish, buff it, and repeat three times. For a superior shine, apply at least five layers as a base.
Using Fire
After applying several layers of polish, directly heat the polished surface. Old-school polishers will use fire, from a lighter or candle, and melt the polish just enough so that it liquefies and smoothes over, but not so much as to set the shoe itself on fire. The key is to keep everything moving - like ironing clothes, leaving the iron on your shirts will surely start a fire, and ruin everything. When the polish melts, the surface becomes impossibly glossy, but as the polish cools, it takes on a dull foggy appearance. An alternative to fire is a hair-dryer. Hair-dryers can generate sufficient heat to melt the polish without setting the shoe on fire. Finally, water is used, as described below to complete the shine. Note that using fire is entirely optional. From my experience, I have found that it is a wholly unnecessary step.
Using Water
This final step is, in my opinion, the key in achieving a glossy finish. The material used to work the polish into the surface varies, depending on tradition, and availability. Though the Kiwi Cloth is recommended, almost any soft material can be used instead. Cottonballs are excellent, but end up being too small to be useful. A cotton rag is an economical alternative. Whatever material is used for the final spit-shine, it is vitally important that it contains no solvents or detergents. Such things can immediately strip layers of polish off the surface, and ruin hours of hard work.
Firstly, soak the cloth in water, and wring it out, leaving it damp. Prepare a dish of water - the lid of the polish tin makes for a good dish. Wrap a section of the cloth around a finger or two - this is the portion of the cloth we will use to spit-shine. Liberally soak the portion in water, easily accessible in that nearby dish, and lightly dab it in polish. You should have some polish now on your fingertips (rather, on the cloth, wrapped around your fingertips). Apply this on the surface using a small circular pattern, with very light pressure. Continue rubbing this spot until the polish no longer streaks, and a patch of brightness appears. Repeat the process on another part of the surface, ensuring that you use a liberal amount of water. Ensure that you pay particular attention to the details. Use a cuetip in a similar manner to polish the seam between the leather and the sole, as well as any other raised seams on the surface. Just like how many layers of buff-polish need to be added, several layers of spit-polish also need to be added. Generally, one should not require any more than three layers of spit-polishing. This is the extremely time-consuming part of the job. Fortunately, spit-polishing is relatively clean as it does not generate the dust that buff-shining does. So, it is best to spit-polish while watching entire seasons of television shows, or movie marathons, while eating, drinking, and/or chatting with friends.
That concludes my brief (haha) tutorial on how to polish shoes. Should you, in the future, require a polish, I will be more than glad to polish your shoes for a modest fee of bubble tea.
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